Zemo Alvani

Gateway to Tusheti's mountain mysteries

Zemo Alvani

Zemo Alvani sits at the confluence of the Alazani and Stori rivers, a village transformed in the 1950s when the Soviet government forcibly resettled the Tush people from their highland auls. These proud mountaineers brought their distinct towers, dialect, and animist-Christian traditions down to the lowlands. Today Zemo Alvani preserves this unique cultural fusion—Tush families maintain their ancestral customs while living among Kakheti's vineyards. The village serves as the essential staging point for the rugged drive into Tusheti, one of Europe's most isolated and spectacular regions. Here, hospitality is sacred law: you may be invited to share khinkali and tushuri guda cheese before you've exchanged names.

On the ground See

  • The Tush Tower Houses—fortified dwellings relocated from mountain villages, some still inhabited by original resettled families
  • The Zemo Alvani Ethnographic Museum, housing Tush textiles, weaponry, and ritual objects from pre-resettlement life
  • The road to Omalo, departing from the village center and climbing through 29 switchbacks to Abano Pass (2,850m), open only July–September

Practical Know before you go

The Omalo road requires 4WD and closes completely October–June due to snow; base yourself here in June or September to avoid peak crowds while ensuring pass access.

Last reviewed 25 August 2026 · reviewed quarterly