Chazhashi

Where stone giants guard the Caucasus

Chazhashi

Chazhashi is the fortified heart of Upper Svaneti, a village where roughly 200 medieval defensive towers rise from a valley floor like weathered sentinels. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, these stone structures served Svan clans as refuge during blood feuds and invasions—each family maintained its own tower, with living quarters below and battlements above. Unlike museum reconstructions, Chazhashi remains inhabited, its wooden balconies, carved window frames, and ancestral shrines (kashveti) still integral to daily life. The village forms the core of the UNESCO-listed Ushguli community, the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe. Here, Christian iconography blends with pagan symbols, and polyphonic singing echoes in stone chambers unchanged for a millennium. It rewards those who seek living architecture rather than preserved ruins.

On the ground See

  • The defensive towers of the Jageli and Gelashvili clans, among the best-preserved examples of Svan fortification architecture
  • The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a 12th-century stone basilica with medieval frescoes and an active congregation
  • The Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography in nearby Mestia, which contextualizes Chazhashi's towers and artifacts before you arrive

Practical Know before you go

Best visited June through September; the 43-kilometer unpaved road from Mestia to Ushguli requires a 4WD vehicle or arranged local transport and takes 2–3 hours.

Last reviewed 25 August 2026 · reviewed quarterly