Self-driving is straightforward on Georgia's main routes: an EU or US driving licence is valid, roads are signed in Latin and Georgian script on major highways, and fuel stations are frequent outside the high mountains. Hiring a driver rather than self-driving is the sensible choice for Svaneti's Ushguli stretch, the Racha road beyond Ambrolauri, and Tusheti's Abano Pass, all of which involve unpaved sections, sharp drops or seasonal closure. Peak driving season runs May to October; the Tusheti and Ushguli roads are typically closed by snow from November through May, and the Georgian Military Highway itself can close temporarily after heavy winter snowfall, so checking road conditions before setting out is worth the five minutes it takes.
Can I drive the Georgian Military Highway in a normal rental car?
Yes. The Military Highway itself is paved and well maintained year-round, though the final approach to Gergeti Trinity Church from Stepantsminda is a rough 4WD track, usually done by local taxi rather than a rental sedan.
Do I need a 4x4 to reach Ushguli or Tusheti?
For Ushguli, high clearance is strongly advised for the unpaved 40-kilometre stretch from Mestia. For Tusheti's Abano Pass, a 4x4 with an experienced local driver is essential — this is not a route for an ordinary rental car under any circumstances.
What time of year should I avoid these mountain routes?
The road to Tusheti is closed by snow from roughly late October to June, and the Ushguli track is typically impassable from November through April. The Military Highway stays open year-round but can face temporary winter closures after heavy snow.
Which road trip is best if I only have one day from Tbilisi?
The Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi is the standard choice: it can be done as a long day trip from Tbilisi and covers Ananuri Fortress, the Zhinvali Reservoir, Gudauri Pass and Gergeti Trinity Church in a single loop.
Is the Kakheti Wine Road suitable for a family trip?
Yes. The roads are paved and gentle, the towns of Telavi and Sighnaghi are easy to walk around, and most wineries welcome families, though tastings themselves are naturally for adults.
We re-check: seasonal road closures on the Military Highway, Abano Pass and the Mestia–Ushguli track; opening hours and entrance fees at Rabati Castle, Vardzia and Batumi Botanical Garden; marshrutka schedules and fares between towns.