Pasanauri

Where dumplings meet mountain trails

Pasanauri

Pasanauri sits at the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers, their distinct hues refusing to mix—a natural phenomenon visible from the town's Soviet-era bridge. But Georgians know this place for something more essential: khinkali, the pleated, juice-filled dumplings claimed to have originated here in the mountainous highlands. The town serves as the last settlement before the Georgian Military Highway climbs toward the 2,378-meter Jvari Pass and the wild Kazbegi region. Its wooden houses and riverfront setting offer an unhurried counterpoint to Tbilisi, while functioning as the practical base for trekkers, rafters, and anyone drawn to the Greater Caucasus.

On the ground See

  • The confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers from the old bridge, where mineral differences keep the waters visibly separate
  • Local family restaurants serving hand-folded khinkali with pork, beef, or herb fillings—eaten by hand, never with a fork
  • White-water rafting launches on the Aragvi, with Class III-IV rapids accessible from town

Practical Know before you go

Best visited May through October; marshrutka vans run hourly from Tbilisi's Didube station (about 90 minutes) and stop at the highway junction requiring a short walk into town.

Last reviewed 25 August 2026 · reviewed quarterly