Why go
Gremi Church rises from a hilltop where the 16th-century capital of Kakheti once stood, before Shah Abbas burned it to ash in 1615. The citadel's tower-church and three-story bell tower are all that survived, built in 1565 by King Levan. The interior holds a rare intact fresco cycle of the Deesis, painted in 1577, and the stone walls still bear the weight of a kingdom that moved its capital to Telavi and never returned. Come for the frescoes, stay for the vertigo of history: vineyards roll out below exactly as they did when this was a royal city.